Non-Commercial

To set the record straight, I'm not a dealer, just mad for kayaking. And if I thought a Hobie offered significant advantages, you can be sure I'd buy a good used one from an unhappy owner. I do run a kayakfishing website with over 300 members and about 6000 posts, plus I test and review kayaks. 
 
So I don't have a horse in this race. You do. 
 
Now let me clarify a couple interesting points: 
 
I'm mystified! How does a paddler use good fighting technique by applying side or upward pressure when being pulled from behind with both hands on his rod. There are fish in my neighbour hood that cant be stopped from behind like that.  
 
Good question. First off, most of us already know, or should, that it's important to keep your drag on the lighter side, as you can always use your hand to increase drag as needed. Now let's say the larger fish is behind - in this case you place your rod tip low to the water and off to either side as desired. This will pull the kayak around. By further adjusting the position of your rod tip you can cause the fish to pull you forward or to either side as you may desire. To the side will make it harder on the fish, to the front, easier. Some big game yakfishers also use mini drag chutes (but this would be for extremely large fish). 
 
Paddler have a particular advantage, as if I need fighting room or wish to reposition my kayak, I can also just jam the rod down the front of my lifevest and paddle/reposition as needed. I've even dragged a few big ones out into the open in this way. Because my paddle is always "at-the-ready" I can react very quickly and safely. 
 
Ok, so are you suggesting that before a paddler should safely take to the water, they should do a kayaking course? That's really not required to just sit and peddle.  
 
Actually I am. Most kayakers could benefit from a couple lessons on kayak handling, safety and reentry. By far, most paddlers are arm and shoulder paddlers and suffer accordingly from poor technique. As far as I'm concerned, people who just jump in and pedal away with little knowledge and experience deserve what they get. In trouble. 
 
 
Add to that, the likelihood that failure will occur is only really likely to happen if the thing is neglected. A bit like not putting oil in your car. 
 
You really need to spend some time at KFS (or my website) - the number of breakdowns, design failures, etc. is amazing. As mentioned it takes a full time Hobie "tech rep" to keep up with all the problems. Just do a search on the rep at KFS and you will be in shock and awe over the volume and frequency of problems. Hobie remains a creative but unfinished design. 
 
I haven't fallen prey to Hobie's claim (that legs are stronger than arms). I'm going from my own experience. I think you've fallen prey to the mutha of all screw ups: assumption.  
 
It is Hobie, not me, that makes this assumption - that legs are stronger - and that is a myth. If your experience agrees, then you, like the great majority of paddlers may rely on arm and shoulder strength. Your shoulder injury might be a result of that, or not. Nonetheless, proper paddling technique - which does require practice - uses the whole body. Legs, hips and especially the torso, but the arms/shoulders to a much lesser degree.  
 
Accordingly good paddlers can go farther, longer and with less effort. This is due as well to the relatively low efficiency of the Hobie flappers, another subject entirely. 
 
I can angle those rods wherever I want. I find (for me) the optimum trolling position to be at a 35 - 40 degree angle downwards, and about 25 degrees outwards. Try that while paddling. 
 
Actually one of the great yakfishers of all time - the famous Kayak Willie of Pompano Beach, FL - targeted blue water sailfish and marlin. He trolled three rods - one overhead, and one angled to each side in a special aluminum bracket he designed. These were mounted at the front of his cockpit so he could watch the rod tips closely. He also used special 8 ft rods he built so as to clear these large fish when they ran around or under his kayak - a custom made glass SOT (16 ft., 48 lb). 
 
Bottom line: trolling rods forward is hardly unique to Hobie. 
 
"Hobie don't go in reverse, can't move sideways, can't do a quick 180, spin in circles. All useful in fishing." Thats what the paddle is for. You paddle dontcha? You already know that. C'mon, keep it real.  
 
Josh, your main point is that the Hobie is "hands-free", trolling, holding your rod, paddle stored in clips. Unless your paddle is "at-the-ready", and in your lap, you cannot quickly or easily react, maneuver or brace. Believe me, the day will come when an unexpected steep wave, wake or reflection comes at you from the side. You'll have but a split second to react and brace and if the paddle isn't already in your hands, well... 
 
And last: 
 
Again, the stealth I tried was heavier than my Revo, and that was the 'supalite' model.  
 
Hobies are VERY, VERY heavy (mostly over 60 lb), and in general they are short, fat, hard to paddle barges. Perhaps you don't have the availability, but there are some very fine fishing kayaks like the Kaskazi Marlin, Pelican, etc. that can be built using vacumn bagging, etc. so as to come in at 40 lbs, or less. I just saw a Skua - 17'4", fast as heck, delivered at 38 lb! 
 
Bottom line: I respect your love of your Hobie, and certainly you have every right to brag on it. But any good review needs to fair and balanced, eh?