Stunning is the only word I could rightly use to describe the conditions for today so my spirits were high as I left the boat ramp. I had a feeling it would be a good day... and it was... monumental even. My search for fish took me on a 25km journey today, trolling under pedal-power for most of that time, throwing a few casts at a few marked drop offs and drifting for a couple of clicks. Starting out on a south-east course I hugged the coastline until I reached the Clarence river mouth outside of Iluka. One quick run across the mouth resulted in naught so I turned around to troll my way back to Woody Head. Despite locating loads of fishing marks along the way I decided to head north out wide and then cut back to the west when level with Shark Bay.
This whale was almost circling me!
About half way back I started seeing whales, appearing on cue in all directions around me. They weren't overly active but they were feeding, launching their wide open mouths into masses of krill. Judging by the amount of activity that I started seeing on the sounder, I'm willing to bet a few fish were scooped up to.
SURPRISE!
At one point a large (approx 13 metres) humpback surfaced about 25 metres ahead of me, so I stopped pedalling and quickly pulled in the rods. Then I reached for my camera and sat there poised for the money shot. For the next 10 minutes the whale circled around me, seemingly oblivious to my proximity. Each time I thought it threatened to come close I'd pedal a couple of strokes to get away from it's potential path. For the most part it hung close to the surface and most of the time I was aware of it's location. But each time it submerged it would randomly appear again. Each time this happened it was a little unnerving.
How close?
It was when narrating to the camera I observed that it had submerged and that I'd lost it's location, asking 'where's it gone?' As if to answer me on cue the whale surfaced then and there... right next to me. It was no more than a couple of feet away and rolling on it's side to get a good look as it passed. I don't even know how I managed to keep snapping photos, because all I wanted to do was hold on for dear life with one hand and cover my head with the other. For a moment there I felt for sure I was going to get slapped across the back of the head with a humpback tail.
That black shadow is my rod holder!
A turbulent whirlpool formed beside the kayak and for a second there it felt like I'd be sucked in. Any other kayak would have been tipped for certain I think, but the Island (fitted with only one ama) was steady as a rock. So even though I was of course freaking out, somehow a part of me knew I'd be OK. That was the part of me that kept snapping photos.
It rolled over next to the kayak
As far as the still shots went, stars aligned perfectly, with the settings just right for the scene that played out. I did have to tweak the zoom slightly and somehow managed to maintain composure enough (and quick thinking) to adjust the lens before snapping. I was filming at the time to, although it was a crying shame I didn't have the Lumix mounted on the starboard side (a habit I've been developing), because had I not left it's RAM camera mount at home, I would have had the camera pointed directly where the whale surfaced.
Then submerged again
What an experience! Breathtaking is one word I'd use to describe it. Heart-stopping is another. I have had quite a few close contacts with humpbacks, in Hervey Bay, Jervis Bay and now Woody Head. This one was by far the most spectacular, and easily the most intimidating. For sure, had it only been just another foot closer, it would have been anyone's guess as to what would have happened. had the starboard ama been installed, it would have copped a mighty knock, that much is certain!
It's been a long time since I've bubbled with this much anticipation, yet there's still about week to go before we embark on our Fraser Isl kayak fishing/sailing odyssey, so I can only imagine how I'll feel the night before we launch. Planning & preparation has been coming along nicely, with all four of us now pretty much kitted to the hilt. A fair bit of thought has gone into a lot of the equipment we're planning to use, with various email discussions circulating through the group in the past few weeks. Some topics have required more emphasis than others, as there are certain limitations related to having to be self-sufficient for eight days that we've had to find solutions for. Those topics are food & cooking, water, waste, communications, weight, storage, rod & tackle selection.
The topic of food has probably been the most challenging, largely because our plan is to base all main meals on whatever fish we catch. Not knowing exactly what we'll catch (and when) makes it difficult to plan each meal to the letter. And because we are disconnected from civilisation for over a week (hooray!) not only do we have to make sure we have enough ingredients to compliment various fish meals, we also have to store and carry it (and each of us also need to carry our own breakfast, lunch & grazing snacks on top of it all). Our approach is similar to that of an expedition trekking group. Holger & I are dehydrating a bunch of various fruit and vegetables (making them lighter, more compact and longer-lasting) with a view to be carrying more than enough to cover 8 days worth of main meals. We've been coordinating on who's drying out what, so as to ensure minimal crossover and maximum variety.
Carl & Paul are responsible for the staples - rice, pastas, etc, as well as sauces, spices. Their mandate is much the same, and equally challenging - to try to pack an appropriate amount that we don't go without when we'd rather not, at the same time avoiding packing too much. Fortunately we are all converging on Hervey Bay (our launch destination) the night before we leave, so we'll get a chance to do a last minute run-through as a group and should be able to tie up any loose ends.
Then there's the problem of how to cook the stuff. We can't fall back on typical cast-iron cookware, BBQ hotplates or tin billies, as these are simply too big and heavy for our requirements. So instead we're relying on ultra-light cookware, a combination of pots, pans & stoves from MSR, Primus & Trangia. We've opted for liquid fuel stoves (we're taking 3 burners) that are more reliable & easier to service in the field, very lightweight and highly efficient. Efficiency is the key word here - less fuel burnt means less fuel required to be carried. And unlike the gas variants, there are no empty canisters after use, reducing the bulk & weight of our respective rubbish bags. Camping at Fraser Island means taking your rubbish with you, so obviously we need to be aware of the kind of waste we will produce and have a plan for storing it. This dictates forethought into packing of consumables, and is one of the reasons that using so many dehydrated ingredients is a good idea.
H20 has also been an issue that has been discussed a fair bit, with the calculation made that we'll all need to carry at least 15 lt's of water each. All of us are packing a 6lt MSR Dromedary bag, due to their suitability for packing, durability & convenience (the cap pourers are excellent, and the wide-mouth fitting can be used in conjunction with a water filter. We'll all also be carrying various plastic bottles filled with water (destined to be stuffed into the hulls). Originally my intention was to use Drom bags exclusively, but Holger made the very good point that it makes sense to carry larger amounts of water in seperate containers. Partly because it allows you to distribute weight evenly throughout the hull, and also prevents the risk of contamination spreading through the entire supply.
Equipment storage always requires a bit of vigilance on a kayak and even more so on an Adventure Island trimaran. When the wind gets up and the island gets going (especially in rougher waters) the island makes for a very wet ride, and everything that isn't 100% watertight will be exposed. So we've all being pretty particular in selection of dry bags and containers. Amongst us are several large Pelican waterproof boxes as well as drybags in various forms from Sealine, Hobie, Sea to Summit & WetTX.
Communications was an interesting topic. Amid the considerations were UHF & VHF radios as well as phones. The latter suggestion was squelched pretty quickly, due to a strong desire to get cut off from civilisation and stay cut off for the duration of the trip. Besides... none of our phones are waterproof. But our radios are. In the end we opted for VHF, partly because waterproof models were more accessible (and 2 of the group already had them) and also because VHF was a better option for future kayak fishing endeavours, group or otherwise. Paul and Holger are carrying Icom units and Carl and I are packing the less expensive and not quite so badass looking Eagle variant.
Rod selection isn't in any way group dependant, so there's going to be a variety of brands & styles being used, though I think all of us will have a similar load out: one big trolling rod for bruiser pelagics (we're anticipating tuna, and hoping for mackerel and marlin), one beefy casting rod for dealing with schooling fish, and a lighter 'flickstick' for smaller species if and when the need arises. I'm carrying 3 Nitros: the trusty Godzilla, the ever dependable Viper and the sleek 007 Magnum Butt travel rod (which will spend most of it's travel time packed inside the hull). Each of these is fitted with a Daiwa Sol (4000, 3000 & 2500 respectively).
You probably wouldn't believe the lengths we're going to in order to catch all the action on video. Each one of is equipped with a Sanyo Xacti HD waterproof camera and among the group there are 20 batteries for these alone (yes, 20 is not a missprint). Carl, holger and I are also carrying Panasonic Lumix cams as well (also waterproof HD) and between us are carrying 12 batteries. We don't need to be so heavy on memory cards though, because Paul is carrying an ultra-mobile PC that will allow us to dump data on to at the end of each day. if the fish are on - and we're expecting them to be - there is going to be hours & hours of footage, not to mention hundreds of photos. I'm using 16GB class 6 SD cards in both cameras.
Obviously we also have to be prepared for maintenance issues that may arise, so we'll definitely be carrying more spares than you normally would for a one-day outing. Fortunately I have direct access to the full range of Hobie spares, so I've organised a spares kit that should cover the groups needs: rudder pins, chains, fins & masts, etc. Ideally we won't have to use any of it and if the others are as vigilant as me, it's unlikely we'll have to. My Miragedrive has been fully dismantled and thoroughly serviced, with every component individually cleaned & lubricated. The rudder has been tuned, all hatch seals have been reconditioned and the sail mast roller bearings lubed. Cams and pulley blocks have also been been lubed and all screw in fittings have been checked for sealing & integrity. Along the way I also lined the forward hatch lid with 2mm close-cell foam, which has certainly made for a tighter seal (to eliminate seepage from the inevitable bow-burying) and modified my bungee system in the rear storage well to better secure my load.
A very cool clip was recently uploaded to youtube from a kayak rentals business that demonstrates what happens when you approach killer whales in kayaks (yes, that's an Hobie i12 inflatable kayak). In short... much the same thing that often happens in dolphin encounters, which is to say they swim about, show off a little, check out the kayaks and move on. A far cry from what the namesake of the species implies, as well as the common misconceptions about killer whales and their temperament.
I can really identify with the guy shooting this clip (somewhere on the other side of the pacific ocean) because although I haven't been that close to killer whales, I have been that close to humpbacks and right southern whales - both of which are much bigger than orcas. I know exactly what it is like to get that close to such a magnificent creature and the way it made me feel. Like this guy, I get giddy with excitement and even though I'm always aware that whales and dolphins are not aggressive, their sheer size is intimidating and yes, I start shaking to. It takes cahones to let them get close, trust me. But when it happens there is nothing you can do but sit back and enjoy it - the experience is always worth it.
It's little wonder killer whales have such a bad rap when you see yioutube clips like this. If you haven't seen it before, go forth and watch it for entertainment. Don't be alarmed though because it's all just SFX, fully explained here.
Transparentsea Team on track to reach Bondi Nov 5th
Photo: Hilton Dawe
(Tuesday, October 20th, Crescent Head, NSW, Australia): After 19 days of surfing, paddling and sailing their way down the NSW coast, the environmental awareness group led by pro surfer Dave Rastovich has successfully passed the halfway point of their intended 700km, 36 day voyage from Byron Bay to Sydney’s Bondi Beach.
Titled “Transparentsea” the initiative, which began on October 1st, aims to draw attention to the plight of the migrating humpback whales as the team follows their path south and to highlight issues of environmental concern to do with Australia’s East Coast.
Speaking from Point Plomer near Crescent Head on Day 20, Rastovich acknowledged the numerous, unforgettable whale and dolphin encounters his team had experienced. However, the alarming amount of debris that has been located and collected at the various locations the team has visited is a concern.
“At times, adult humpback whales and their calves have chosen to surface two feet away from our kayaks, which has just been amazing,” explained Rastovich.
“We’ve also camped in some of the most beautiful beachside campgrounds and surfed those beaches, but picked up hundreds and hundreds pieces of plastic and rubbish in places that look ‘Good from far, but are far from good’,” he added.
Rastovich, who says his team is on track to reach Bondi by the planned date of November 5th, also urged everyone who shared the vision of the Transparentsea environmental awareness initiative to support the Sea Shepherd Conservation Society founded by anti-whaling activist Paul Watson.
Rastovich noted that the Sea Shepherd is the only organisation planning to send a vessel to help defend the whales in the Southern Ocean sanctuary from Japanese whalers in December. While Watson has been a focus of the media after Australian Immigration denied his entry based on issues to do with his visa.
“It has been very disappointing to learn that the Australian Government recently obstructed Paul Watson’s entry to Australia, rather than welcoming him as a great defender of the whales,” said Rastovich.
“Instead of upholding their pre election promise to challenge Japanese whaling in international court and to protect the Southern Ocean sanctuary, the Australian Government appears to have turned their back on the whales that are once again under threat.”
It’s anticipated that dozens of surfers and well wishers will welcome the Transparentsea voyagers, which includes Rastovich, fellow surfer, artist and activist Chris Del Moro (San Diego, CA, USA), musician Will Conner (Byron Bay, NSW), photographer Hilton Dawe (Byron Bay, NSW), a support team and special guests, when they negotiate the last few hundred metres from the sea to the shore at Bondi Beach on November 5th.
After reading that according to the Mouri Fishing Calendar that Saturday was supposed to be an 'excellent' fishing day, I got myself over-excited and planned to spend most of that day on the water. Armed with the usual load out of rods & tackle, today I packed a few more snacks than usual... a snickers bar and packet of corn chips added to the typical bag of nuts and Vegemite sandwich. If the fish were going to be on the bite, I was going to give myself all the time in the world to find them. According to my sounder I did, in all the usual 'go-to' fish holding spots I've marked in the Woody Head area. But save for a sole bonito hooked while trolling, catch them, I could not.
Maybe I'd have achieved better results by casting and bouncing lures around the reefs, but not wishing to further injure my already troubled shoulder (saving it for Fraser island) I decided to troll instead. All told I covered some 26km, though not all of it was in the pursuit of fish. Soon after launching I spotted a pair of humpback whales just a few km out from shark bay, and slowly moving towards my direction. Of course I pedalled to close the distance, pulling up some 200 metres from their position and then waited (and hoped) for them to swim on over. Thats exactly what they did to, and when they arrived they seemed to pause for a bit and then move on slowly. I did film this as it occured, though I neglected to film their approach. This is a little unfortunate, as I can't prove I didn't approach them beyond the legal proximity. I showed the clip to a few people today, all of whom suggested that it very well might get me in trouble with the law, so I've decided not to upload it. Snippets of the footage will appear in a future highlight reel, but not as a trip report. It's just too easy for an observer to get the wrong impression. Suffice to say that the whales came within 2 metres of the kayak, which was as intimidating as it was awe-inspiring. In hind sight, I now wish I was snapping photos instead of rolling video.
Later on I spotted the same whales, this time joined by a 3rd (dad perhaps) and it was very interesting to sit back and watch their behaviour from a distance. It was just the other day I was reading (from the Transparent Sea website) that the guys observed a mature humpback teaching it's calf how to leap out of the water. That's exactly the way I'd describe what I saw. Watching through my binoculars, I followed them as they made their way from Shark bay out into the ocean. As they moved in an easterly direction the baby whale was leaping out of the water almost non-stop. Every so often - and seemingly each time the calf didn't breach too well - the mother would leap out, as if to show baby how to do it right. And then the calf would start up again. It was a highly entertaining distration from the so called 'excellent' fishing day. Damn Mouris! *shakes fist*
H20 has also been an issue that has been discussed a fair bit, with the calculation made that we'll all need to carry at least 15 lt's of water each. All of us are packing a 6lt 
